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Brake Pads

Change your pads regularly for safe braking

Brakes are probably the most important part of your car. There's nothing more important than being able to stop your vehicle. It's crucial to change your brake pads at early signs of trouble to maintain maximum performance from your braking system. 90 percent of the time, it will be the front pads that need changing.

There are two ways to determine when your brakes need to be replaced. The first is visually, by viewing the pads from outside the front tire. If you have less than 1/4 inch of pad left, they need replacing soon. If you see even less, then they need to be replaced immediately! The second is by ear - hearing screeching sounds when braking means your brakes need to be replaced very soon. Changing brake pads too soon is better than too late, especially when your safety is on the line!

Steps for brake pad replacement

If you don't feel confident replacing your own brake pads, have a qualified mechanic change them for you. Choose a mechanic you've used before and whom you trust to do the job right. If you're a certified car buff, here's a step-by-step guide on the proper procedure for replacing brake pads:

  1. Preparation - You'll need a number of tools for this procedure: lug wrench, adjustable wrench, c-clamp, Allen wrench, hammer and small bungee cord. When you're ready, have the car securely jacked up and resting on jack stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack, in case it slips.
  2. Remove the wheel - Break the lugs so they can be easily removed. Remove the lug nuts from the bottom up, so that the wheel stays in place until you remove the last nut. Remove the wheel.
  3. Unbolt the brake caliper - Remove the caliper so that the brake pads will slide out through the top. On some cars, the pads can be removed without unbolting the caliper. Remove the bolts on the caliper and pull upward, being careful not to damage the break line. Find a place to safely set the caliper.
  4. Remove the brake pads - Take a minute to examine the installation of the brake pads before removing the old pads. This way you'll know how everything fits back together. Slide the old pads out and replace them with the new ones, reinstalling all the little retaining clips.
  5. Compress the brake piston - The piston automatically adjusts itself to fit the brake pads. However, it will have adjusted itself to match the old ones, so you'll need to push the piston back to its starting point to prevent damage to your new brake pads. Place the c-clamp over the piston and slowly squeeze until the piston is back far enough to fit the caliper over the new pads.
  6. Reinstall the brake caliper - With the piston now compressed, the caliper should fit easily over the new brake pads. Tighten the bolts and test the brake pedal a few times to ensure you have solid brake pressure. Finally, put the wheel back on and tighten all of the lugs nuts. After that, you've successfully changed your brake pads!
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Im building another T-Bucket I bought from another guy and I tryed different rims like chevy/dodge etc. Where can I get info on which rotors I have? Bolt pattern is 5 on 4 1/2 center to center with a center hole opening of 2 3/4 Anybody know what it is???
Posted on 4/9/2009 8:51:00 AM by Anonymous
I have a 1931 chevy sports coupe. I have looked at a lot of sites and have not found a disc brake change out kit for a 31. They all start at around 33 or later. If anyone knows of a place that have the kit for a 31 please email : parkerrobinson@bellsouth.net Thank You
Posted on 3/7/2009 3:06:00 PM by Anonymous
remember on some fords you need a tool to compress the piston. this tool will compress and turn the piston at the same time. easy way to know if you need this tool is if you see 2 dimples on the piston on the outer edge of the face one across form the other
Posted on 2/14/2009 2:05:00 PM by Anonymous
You failed to mention that pushing the caliper piston back in to the caliper, can cause the brake fluid to overflow, if the fluid has been maintained at the high level !!! Some of the fluid should be removed first with a piece of transparent tubing, so you don't get brake fluid in your mouth !
Posted on 7/16/2008 12:18:00 PM by Anonymous
I just wrote that message below about the 1954 and 1954 Desoto cars and needing to find brake shoes for thier drums. If anyone can help me find a way to get replacement shoes for those two cars I would be very greatful and you can contact me by e-mail at Ted37846@yahoo.com if you can help me get the brake shoes for those two antique cars replaced.
Posted on 6/15/2008 2:43:00 PM by Anonymous
I have a Problem. I am trying to find brake shoes for two Antique cars that i am restoring. One is a 1954 Desoto Firedome and the other is a 1950 Desoto Custom. I am having the hardest time finding a place that will have replacement brake shoes for these two cars. If someone could help me I would be very greatful.
Posted on 6/15/2008 2:41:00 PM by Anonymous
I am disappointed with the person that designed the metalic brake pads for any and all vehicles . For I have had to replace my rotors after almost every time I do a brake job. And no my calipers are not the problem. I would like to locate some organic pads, because they last and ware longer. Thanx Duane from Calif.
Posted on 6/2/2008 1:54:00 PM by Anonymous
I have a 1998 Jimmy SLS 4x4, 4 door, it had the 4.3L but i'am installing a v8 what is the best price on the GMC Jimmy 98-02 Drill Slot Frt & Rr Brake Rotor & Pads because the shipping will be $121.54 plus taxes --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted on 5/29/2008 1:48:00 AM by Anonymous
I WAS VERY DISSAPOINTED WITH THE NEW SET OF REAR BRAKES THAT I INSTALLED ON MY 1999 S10 BLAZER. THE METAL ENDS THAT FIT INTO STAINLESS SLOTS WOULD NOT FIT. SEEMS THAT METAL CASTINGS WERE NOT CLEANED OFF. I HAD TO GRIND OFF METAL TO FIT. I HOPE THAT I DID NOT COMPROMISE METAL STRUCTURE. TURNED 20 MINUTE JOB INTO 3 HOURS. I WILL THINK TWICE BEFORE PURCHACING ANOTHER SET. THANKS, GEORGE SPIELER.
Posted on 5/21/2008 2:42:00 PM by Anonymous
Will the C-clamp work for compressing the piston on a 2003 jaguar x-type?
Posted on 10/15/2007 4:55:00 AM by Anonymous
How about the rear pads and rotors...there is a hand brake connection on most....91 Ford Escort Gt???
Posted on 10/10/2007 8:28:00 PM by Anonymous
So impressed by the research
Posted on 10/2/2007 3:22:00 PM by Anonymous
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